Chapter 24 of 28
Chapter 23
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CHAPTER XXIII
IDUA TO ATABONG
Up yet another creek lies the town of Idua Asang, which,
like greater Idua, claims to have been founded by the first-
comers to this part of the world, driven steadily seaward
by the later-arrived Oronn. Many years ago the neighbouring towns, Eyo Abassi and Ikwita, made war upon
the Iduans, defeated them with great slaughter and drove
them forth from their homes. There was nowhere for the
conquered to flee, save to the desolate mangrove swamps,
where for a while they lived in great misery, “ like monkeys
amid the branches ” overhanging the treacherous, evilsmelling mud.
Some time before this defeat the people of ’Nda Okkob-
bor had quarrelled with their neighbours of Ebighi Okkob-
bor. The two towns fought and the first was victorious.
Then the vanquished went to work in a cunning way. They
sent hunters into the bush to kill a leopard and bring its
body secretly to their town. The gall was extracted ;
for, according to a widespread belief on the West Coast,
this, prepared with magic rites, forms a powerful poison.1
When all was ready, the people of Ebighi went at twilight
and dug a hole in the sand by the spring whence the drinking water of their enemies was drawn. Next day, at dawn,
the women of ’Nda came thither, filled their jars and
carried them home ; then cooked chop and gave to their
husbands and children. All ate and drank and nearly
all died from the poison, so the town was left desolate.
When the few survivors heard what had befallen the Iduans
and that the latter had no place in which to live, they
1 Cf. In the Shadow of the Bush, p. 27.
3i3
went out across the swamp, calling to the refugees to come
down and speak with them. When this was done, they
said :
“ You have no place in which to dwell, while we have
much land and many empty homesteads. Come, therefore, and settle among us, and we will give you all you
need.”
The Iduans were glad to hear this and followed to the
place pointed out. Only a small creek led to the new
town, but this they soon broadened and deepened so as
to provide a better approach. The bush too was cleared
and a little beach made as a landing-place.
Our visit to Idua was unexpected, since it was the first
made by a District Commissioner for fifteen years. The
people seemed gentle and biddable, however; for when a
deep pit to the left of the main street was shown them,
and it was explained that the swarms of mosquitoes breeding
in the stagnant water caused the death of many children,
they did not wait for orders, but at once ran for hoes,
spades, and shovels, and began filling it in. Later, when
the same danger was pointed out from the larvae breeding
in a decayed canoe, a rush was made for this and it was
at once rolled over so that it should no longer hold water.
As we followed the road inland, through Okkobbor
country, toward the town of Ube, each person met gave
a pleasant word of greeting, then dropped lightly on one
knee, at the same time raising a hand in the graceful salutation usual amid this race. Along the way, we were told,
grew sacred trees, each of which was a “ very big Juju,”
and, always supposing that the proper sacrifices were made,
could give “ plenty piccans ” and other favours for the
asking.
Just before Ube, the first of these was reached—a
magnificent specimen, the bole of which rises straight for
over a hundred feet, supporting a crown of great branches
spreading symmetrically in every direction.
The name of the indwelling spirit is “ Ebiribong,” and
in his honour, at the time of the new yam planting, a great
play is held and a he-goat sacrificed. The holy images
are brought out with dancing, singing, and much rejoicing,
vJ
Ebiribong Tree,
and set in the clear space at the foot of the tree, where
nothing is allowed to grow save the young leaves of the
Thaumatococcus, from the dried and flattened stems of which
sleeping mats are made. Chains and cords woven from
such stems are festooned round the images, and there seems
to be some idea in the native mind that by encircling
these a blessing will be drawn down upon all bridal beds,
the mats of which are plaited from like material. This
ceremony every single inhabitant of Ube Okkobbor must
attend. Should any have gone on long journeys, or be
detained elsewhere from some cause, they must be sought
and brought back before the rites can be carried out.
At the foot of the great trunk, facing the entrance in
the fence which separates the enclosure from the main
road, stands a small hut built over one of the gnome-shaped
ant-hills. A few feet above this, round the mighty bole,
a long fringed mat of plaited palm is hung. This, like the
one already described,1 symbolises rainbow and lightning,
the dry and the rainy seasons.2
The inhabitants of Ube stated that their town had
never before been visited by a white man. It was clean
and well kept, but the people were busy giving it an extra
“ tidying up ” in honour of our coming. A little beyond
it another tall tree was passed. This is named ’Ndemm
Oisong, and is supposed to have the power of conferring
long life upon its worshippers.
Farther on still, near Atabong, we came across a third
sacred tree, which had been struck by lightning some years
ago. This misfortune is said so to have enraged the indwelling dryad that sacrifices have had to be made ever
since, lest in anger he should harm passers-by.
The story of the founding of Atabong town is as follows :
“ Once long ago in a village to the north of Calabar
lived a tribe of Efik fisher-folk called Adiabo. These used
1 P- 38-
2 Similar symbols may be found in Murray Island, Torres Straits,
where, to cause rain, “ four large screens, composed of plaited coconut
leaves, were placed at the head, foot, and sides of the grave to represent
clouds . . . and coconut leaves with their leaflets pointing downwards
were suspended close by to represent rain ” (Haddon, Magic and, Fetishism,
p. 16).
to earn their living by diving to collect shell-fish, which
they sold to neighbouring people, until a strange fatality
settled on one of the principal families. This was constantly mourning the loss of sons, who perished through
the attacks of crocodiles, which seemed to single out this
sole clan for death and let all the others go free. Finally
one of the head chiefs was seized, whereon the remnant
cried : ‘ We will stay here no more to be destroyed one
by one, but will go forth and find a new home, where we
may dwell in safety.’
“ Down the Cross River, therefore, went all that was
left of the Adiabo, till they came to a creek belonging to
the Okkobbor people. In that place grew plenty cane too
much, so it was called Ataw Abong, i.e. Place of Cane,
a name which later was contracted into Atabong. There
the new-comers settled and prospered exceedingly. Many
piccans were born and grew up, till the tribe had more
than regained its old strength. One day, while a great
play was being given in the town, the head chief of Effiatt
went by in a big, mighty canoe, attended by many followers.
They were on their way to Esiet in the Ibibio country,
but the tide was against them and they were forced to go
slowly. Over the water came the sound of singing, and
the chief said, ‘ This play is too sweet in my ears. Pull
towards the beach, therefore, for I must land and see.’
“ When the Adiabo saw the strangers, they received
them very kindly, and said that they must spend all day
and all night there and join in the play. The chiefs brought
gifts of cloth for their visitors, and, in return, the people
of Effiatt dashed them the loads of crawfish which they
were on their way to sell.
“Now the daughter of the Chief of Atabong was very
beautiful, and when the Prince of Effiatt saw her he at once
fell in love. He therefore called a boy and, pointing her
out, asked, ‘ Is that girl wedded or already bespoken ? ’
The youth answered, laughing, ‘ If you wish to know
such a thing as this, you had better ask her father.’
“ This advice was followed, and the marriage arranged.
In honour of the alliance another play was given, which
lasted for four days. At the end of that time the Effiatt
left their new friends, and with them went the bride to
her future home.
“ Three or four months later, the Chief of Atabong
said : ‘ Now I must go to visit my daughter.’ He set
out and soon reached Akwa Obio Effiatt, where his son-in-
law lived. The latter was not in his house, and his people
said that he had gone away to seek for crawfish. The
visitor asked where he might be found, and they answered :
‘ Across the big water, on the other side.’
“ Thither, therefore, went the father-in-law, and was
kindly welcomed. He was amazed at the amount of the
catch which he saw, and the riches to be gained by this
industry ; so he stayed, learning the methods of the Effiatt,
until the water spoiled, i.e. the fishing season was over.
“ On his return, the chief told his own people of what
he had seen, and, at their request, asked his son-in-law
whether they also might join in fishing. The latter was
willing, and showed him a good place in which to build
his Ine (i.e. fishing settlement), and also indicated the
stretch of water which should belong to the new-comers.
“ From that time the people of Atabong have spent
the whole of the fishing season on the far side of the estuary,
and only come back to their homes during the rains.”
As at Ibeno and Eket, here also, in olden days, at the
beginning of each fishing season, a man was chosen from
among the poorer sort, and bound to a post at low tide,
to be drowned by the rising water. Now a cow or bull
is sacrificed in like manner, that the crawfish Juju may be
pleased with the offering and, in return, bestow heavy
catches upon its worshippers.
On the occasion of our first visit to Atabong we had
gone by land from Idua in order to map the road, while
the paddlers had been told to go round by water and meet
us at Atabong beach. According to the manner of their
kind, these did not see fit to put in an appearance ; so,
after waiting till the last moment, we were forced to hire
others and embark on a crazy canoe, which chanced to be
the only one available at the time.
Water poured in through the cracks on every side, and
one of the police, a Yoruba over six feet in height, who
unfortunately suffered from a chronic dread of this element,
burst into loud weeping, which continued at intervals
during the whole journey. Between his sobs he announced
that the paddlers were bad men who would “ Drown us
all for water.” In spite of this gloomy prognostication,
however, by the aid of continual bailing, we passed safely
through the maze of unmapped lily-strewn streams out
on to the broad bosom of the Cross River, down the
swift-flowing current of which we were borne, and arrived
some two hours later, by the light of a glorious moon, at
Idua Oronn.