Chapter 23 of 28
Chapter 22
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CHAPTER XXII
IBENO TO OKON EKKPO (JAMES TOWN)
One morning, after a short stay at Ibeno, we started to
cross a little-known stretch of bush land to the eastward
which proved, from the beginning, rich in flowers new to
our collection, many new to science also.
After a while the country grew wilder. The path
degenerated into a mere track, two to three feet deep at
times and not more than six inches broad to the tread.
This necessitated care in going, as Europeans, unlike natives,
find it hard to place the feet one before the other instead
of side by side. The difficulties of the way too were greatly
heightened by the fascination of the vegetation on either
side, which constantly drew our eyes from the snares of
the path ; especially when at a turn in the road we came
upon a Napoleona not only unknown to us but surely new
to science, since this was the first to be found growing upon
a liane, while of the eight or so of this interesting family
formerly known we could not remember one which, even
remotely, resembled the new discovery.
After this find it became almost impossible to keep a
sufficiently wary eye upon the path, and one or two painful
stumbles resulted ; but who, among those who have experienced the fascination of botanising in what is practically
new territory, could count the cost of graze or bruise when
suddenly entering a forest of Napoleonas of bewildering
beauty, fragrance, and diversity of form and tint ? The
next new species found was one with a shell-pink pistil,
staminal whorl of vivid rose, and second whorl edged with
oval spots of white set in crimson.
Hardly was this passed, when another creeper met our
298
eyes, some twenty metres long and covered with blooms of
apricot and white. Then, after one or two known varieties
a fourth new species with winged stems burst into view, and
next two more with serrated leaves, though all previously
known, had, to the best of our belief, had their edges intact.
During the last two tours in the Oban District it had been
our good fortune to double the known varieties of this
interesting family ; but I doubt if any botanist had ever
before the joy of adding during a single walk seven new
species to so fascinating and rare a group.
Nor was this all. Before leaving England, Dr. Otto
Stapf, F.R.S., of the Kew Herbarium, had impressed upon
us the importance of investigating the agencies by which
the cauliflorous flowers of this region are fertilised. The
problem as to why bark-flowering trees, so rare in other
places, should exist in such countless varieties in those
parts of the west coast where we have been enabled to make
a special study of them, forms an attractive riddle. Dr.
Stapf suggested that a solution might be found by studying
the slugs, snails, and insects most attracted to those singular
growths. Ever since our return we had been anxiously
looking for anything of the kind ; but had as yet discovered
nothing, save the added mystery that one or two species
found flowering in the ordinary way at Oban were seen
to grow cauliflorously in the Eket marsh-lands. On this
walk, however, a slug much like a shell-less snail was discovered on several varieties of Napoleona : a specimen was
at once procured and forwarded to Kew. In all, this single
bush march of just over ten miles yielded thirty-two specimens new to our collection, a gratifying result when one
considers that this is already on its way into the fourth
thousand.
Had scratches and bruises been the only penalty for so
rich a harvest they would have been held cheap enough ;
but alas ! we woke from our exciting search to the discovery
that a turning which should have been followed was missed
long since ; and the guide, who had undertaken responsibility for keeping our feet in the way they should go, protested, with many demands on our sympathy, that, having
quite forgotten the name of the town to which he had
promised to lead us, he had followed as fancy led and was
now as ignorant as ourselves as to our whereabouts ! He
suggested hopefully, however, that if we kept on long
enough the path must surely lead somewhere in the end,
and, for want of better, we felt constrained to follow his
advice. At last we discovered our carriers, who had also
lost their way and been led, by a merciful dispensation of
Providence, along other paths to the same destination.
We had the mortification of finding ourselves far from
welcome visitors. The arrival of the District Commissioner in this town was as unexpected as unpremeditated,
and no precautions had therefore been taken to clean the
place or clear the road. The tone of the people was consequently by no means cordial, and our unfortunate cook,
a man of irreproachable manners, son of the head chief
of an important town, found his inquiries as to where a
chicken and some vegetables could be bought met by a
burst of fury on the part of the man whom he happened
to question. The latter asserted that, though house and
home should be burnt in consequence, no information
would be given by him. This expression, inexplicable at
the time, was later explained, when we learned of the false
assertions made by disaffected elements that I was about
to carry fire and sword throughout the District. Up till
now carriers and attendants had always shown a preference
for taking up their quarters in stuffy village compounds,
rather than in the clean camp pitched for us some distance
away. To-night they all crowded round our temporary
abode and began raising little shelters rather than seek
lodgings in neighbouring houses. When asked the reason
for this sudden change of habit, they answered unanimously
that they “ Done fear too much,” since women as well
as men threatened to fight them if they approached the
town.
On starting next morning the roads were found barred
by stout fences, ostensibly to keep goats and sheep from
eating the young corn and yam shoots in wayside farms,
but which would also act as protection in inter-town
warfare. These obstacles were crossed by rough stiles ;
but the difficulty thus placed in the way of traders, or
indeed of all load-bearers, was too great to be allowed to
continue.
At Adukum, after clambering over one of these annoying
impediments, we found ourselves in a large compound
which at first sight seemed deserted like all others through
which we had passed that morning—a circumstance which
we put down to the fact that the owners were probably
away at farm work, though we afterwards learned that,
owing to the widespread calumnies already referred to,
they had fled in terror at our approach.
Suddenly we became aware that this compound was
not empty. On a log of wood laid across the threshold
of the principal door sat a lonely figure robed from head
to foot in a long garment of black velvet, immovable and
tragic—bringing to mind some hero of old, hopeless, but
facing doom with indomitable courage. Just so might a
Roman senator have sat, awaiting the onslaught of the
barbarians before whom he scorned to flee.
Not until we had approached to within a few feet did
the quiet form show the least sign of life. Then he silently
rose and stood before us, a tall figure, paler than most
of his race, though of pure blood, with clear-cut features
and steady eyes. So distinctly was the expression of
danger, faced unflinchingly, mirrored in their depths, that
we involuntarily glanced round to see what peril could be
threatening so obviously brave a man.
Nothing was to be seen but our carriers, drinking from
a great water-pot which they had discovered, and the
quaint little khaki-clad figures of my two companions,
dressed as usual in marching kit. It was on us that the
chief’s eyes rested, as if quietly weighing us according to
some standard of his own.
Surely presentiments are unreliable things, or we should
have been made aware, by some subliminal sense, that
this quiet figure had stood, and was still standing, between
us and death ; for, as already related,1 ’Ndemm ’Nyenn
alone, the chief who now stood before us, had refused to
have any hand in the murder of a man who had done his
people no wrong.
1 P. 265.
The guide now took the opportunity to disclaim further
knowledge of the road, and as all the other inhabitants
had disappeared, the chief himself offered, with grave
courtesy, to lead us to our destination.
From now on, broad stretches of farm land alternated
with belts of bush, each with some new floral treasure to
offer, until Uda was reached. This town stands above a
wide stretch of water, and is the home of several powerful
Jujus already described.1
Far as the eye could reach along the Uda creek no vegetation but mangrove was to be seen. This stretch of water
was negotiated in dug-outs. Then came another march,
and another creek ; but this time the tide was out, and
we walked for some half-mile along the oozy bed, watching schools of mud-fish scatter in every direction on our
approach.
These curious little creatures usually swim with the
head above water, or skim the surface, almost in the manner
of flying-fish. When high and dry, on mud flats or banks,
they walk at a great rate by reason of their feet-like fins,
which leave queer little herring-bone tracks in the soft mud.
Their enormous goggle eyes glance sharply hither and
thither, looking like two black beads set close together.
After a while, a sudden turn to the right brought us to
the edge of the water a few feet deep, where a small dug-
out was in waiting to carry us down a narrow channel
into a deep creek some three or four hundred yards across.
As the town for which we were making was marked on
the latest map as many miles from the nearest water, we
were agreeably surprised, after landing on a beach into the
mud of which the feet sank from one to two feet at every
step, to find our destination only a few yards from the bank.
Hardly had we settled down in our quarters than, just
as daylight was fading, a long file of women came back
from their work in the farms. In front walked a sinister
figure, her head covered with a piece of cloth which overhung the brows, then fell, cowl-like, on either side. From
the shadow beneath two dark eyes shone feverishly, set
in an animated skull; for nose and lips had been eaten
1 See p. 33.
away by some terrible disease, while the skin, either unusually pale for one of her race or rubbed with white chalk,
was tightly drawn across the cheek bones—giving an effect
something between “ Der Tod als Freund ” and Sintram’s
“Little Master.” My companions were grateful for the waning
daylight and the homely aspect of our surroundings ; for
to have met so terrible a “ Death in Life ” amid the way-
side tombs of a moonlit bush-path would have sent a shudder
through stronger nerves than theirs.
At dawn we set forth once more, and, after another
interesting march, reached the sea again, on the opposite
side of the District to that from which we had started.
Our destination, Okon Ekkpo (James Town) lies at the
point where the river, called by white people after Chief
James, a Calabar trader, who had settled there, but known
as “ Mbo ” by natives, flows into the Cross River and thence,
through a little bay, into the Gulf of Guinea.
Here too the land is low-lying, the only piece of high
ground being a sandy bluff of curious formation, apparently
the delta between long-dead river mouths. Since there
was no suitable rest-house a site had to be found, and a
magnificent one offered upon the high land just described,
which falls sheer to the beach. We landed at a little sandy
cove on the right, which gave access to a settlement of
fisher-folk, some way to the rear. Here, on the beach
in the shelter of the bluff, a small shed was to be seen, built
over a collection of Juju pots and posts, together with a
perfectly preserved human skull, over which palm-oil and
other libations had lately been poured. This was the shrine
of Abassi Esuk, the God of the Beach, and was placed
there to protect canoes and nets, and ensure plentiful
catches to its worshippers.
On the plateau above, a great tree spread protecting
arms between us and the fierce sunshine ; and amid the
dead leaves piled about its roots lay several objects so
beautiful in shape and colour that they drew from us an
involuntary gasp of longing. They were a torque, crown,
anklets, and bracelets of bronze, of fine workmanship,
apparently very old, and weathered to the most perfect
shades of blue and green, till they looked as if partly hewn
from solid turquoise and partly from chrysoprase. Amid
them lay a small flat sacrificial stone, rusty-red in tone.
Obviously the tree had once been regarded as of more
than usual sanctity ; but those who brought the offerings
had long ago passed away, for the condition of the undergrowth showed that the place had been undisturbed for
many years. It was a great temptation therefore, since
they belonged to no one, to take possession of the beautiful
objects, especially of the crown, which lay in such a position
that, without touching it, we could see it was wrought in a
pattern of interlacing snakes. Fear of wounding the susceptibilities of the people, however, kept us from hinting
at our desire to purchase all, or any, of the ornaments. It
seemed to be a case of virtue rewarded, for the particular
tree fell during a tornado, not long after the rest of the
ground had been cleared for the new buildings. The owners
of the land were then approached on the subject, and the
torque is at present in our possession.
It transpired that the tree had been a special object of
veneration, to which women from all parts of the District
came on long pilgrimages. It was supposed to have the
power of granting fertility to those who performed the
necessary rites, as well as to protect them in childbirth and
at all times of danger. Young girls too, before entering
and after leaving the “ Fatting House,” came to ask a
blessing from the indwelling Dryad, who was thought to
confer the power of attracting the hearts of wooers. So
famous were the oracles given from this grove that it was
named ’Mkpang Utong, i.e. The Place of Listening Ears.
To the right of the rest-house lies the open sea, while
before it the mouths of the Akwa Yafe and Kwa Rivers may
be seen. To the left the Cross River flows down from
behind a green promontory, on the shores of which a little
colony of friendly fisher-folk have built their palm-leaf huts
so close to the water’s edge that the waves at high tide
actually lap against the frail walls. On the shores of this
promontory, and almost in view of the rest-house, is the
shrine of the great Juju Ita Brinyan.1
A quarter of an hour’s paddling in the long canoes brings
1 P. 50.
one to Effiatt Island, usually called Tom Shott by white men,
against the farther shore of which surge the breakers of the
open sea.
On the wave-worn beach of the opposite shore stands the
remnant of Onossi, once a thriving settlement from Atabong
in the Eket District, but now little more than a group of
fisher huts left standing when the rest was washed away.
The people here believe that, after sunset of the day on which
a great chief dies at Calabar, a canoe may be seen slipping
through the shadows towards their town. Its coming is
heralded by the sound of tom-toms, played by no mortal
hand ; and it is driven forward by paddles, the wood of which
“ neither grew in syke nor ditch, nor yet in ony sheugh.”
“ Up the big mighty creek of Onossi ” passes the phantom
canoe, to a ghost town thought to exist near its source.
The more sheltered water to landward is peopled, at
certain times of the year, by flocks of egrets, skimming the
surface, settling amid the trees of the mainland at high tide,
or strutting about on the yellow sand left visible at low.
On the wing, their long necks are drawn in till they seem
quite short and pouched, but on land there is no disguising
the grace of the long curves, as they bend hither and thither
preening wings and breast or searching for prey. Whether
against a background of blue sky or sombre storm cloud,
golden sand or green bush, these beautiful birds seem the
whitest things on earth.
According to local legend, in the dry season, just before
flood time, two great serpents swim slowly through the
water hereabouts. No one knows whence they come, but,
having met, they swim side by side, many yards apart,
toward the mouth of the Kwa River. Arrived there, they
link tails and, stretched like a great rope almost from side
to side, begin to move up stream.
“ Before them they force the water, which advances in a
great wave, the sound of which is louder and deeper than
that driven before the prow of a steamer. ‘ Brr-00-00 !
Brr-00-00 ! Brr-00-00 ! ’ warns the oncoming water. Then
those who are out in canoes must ship their paddles and
cling to overhanging branches by the bank, while the helmsman steers very carefully or they will all be drowned.
“ Right up the river swim the serpents, driving the water
before them, till they reach Esuk Atu, where dwells the great
fresh-water Juju Idemm. As a sign of respect to this, the
snakes untwine their tails and allow the water to fall until
the holy spot is left behind. Afterwards they join again,
and once more drive the water before them as far as Etunkpe
Creek. The tide always follows. Sometimes they come
twice in a month. The wave which they drive before them
is called Awawa, and people name the day of their coming
Awawa day.” Such is the local explanation of the Kwa
River Bore.1
The great dug-out canoes which one sees round Jamestown are the most valuable possessions of their owners.
Sometimes they are large enough to hold twelve puncheons
of palm oil, and may cost anything up to a hundred pounds
or more. The price depends not only on size and workmanship, but also upon the character of the indwelling spirit;
for no one cares to entrust his own safety, or that of puncheons worth fifteen to twenty pounds apiece, to a canoe of
which the presiding sprite is mischievous or malignant.
A few months ago, one of the chiefs gave an order for
a specially fine dug-out. A huge tree was chosen, felled,
halved and hollowed in the usual manner. By some misfortune the rites for inducing a strong but beneficent Djinn
to take up abode within seemed to have failed. Whether
the tree had been possessed by a malignant spirit which
refused to be driven forth, or whether some ill-wisher
wrought a charm by which a mischievous sprite was
attracted into the new craft, remains a matter of doubt.
In any case, the chief who had given the order refused to
accept the boat in spite of its fine long lines and unusual
spaciousness. “ What is the use of so great a craft to me,”
he argued, “ when the canoe-sprite seeks to drown all who
set foot within ? I would rather have a small boat the
indwelling spirit of which is steady and well disposed, than
the greatest canoe ever cut possessed by one of such unreliable character as this ! ”
1 Cf. the Malay belief that bores are “ caused by the passage of some
gigantic animal, most probably a sort of dragon” (Skeat, Malay Magic,
p. io).
At the prows of all the larger craft three small square
bosses are usually carved. These are regarded as representations of the spirit, and before them plantains and other
small offerings of food are laid, while strips of cloth intended
as garments hang from the point.1
When a canoe starts to crack and split, the indwelling
Mana also begins to fail in strength, like a man growing
weak and frail by reason of advancing years. So soon as
the boat has grown too old for safety, it is cut up and serves
to mend others. By those who still hold to old customs,
however, the prow is never used for such a purpose, but is
sawn off about a yard below the square bosses and then
placed high and dry on the beach, or beneath some Juju
shed. This is done that the Djinn may still have a place of
shelter here on earth instead of being driven forth into the
spirit world. When this last refuge decays it can no longer
linger in the sunshine, but must at length set forth for the
realm of ghosts.
The bottoms of old canoes are often cut into long strips
some foot and a half in width. These serve as floats for
small brown urchins who swim upon them, with over-arm
action, toward the family fishing-nets, the position of which
is marked by posts. As our canoe passed among them, the
edge of the board, seen sideways, showed a striking likeness
to the strange up-curved, ambach floats used by the Buduma
on Lake Chad.
There is an odd little superstition here, no trace of which
1 For similar Malay beliefs cf. Skeat, op. cit. p. 279. “ The ship being
a living organism, one must, of course, when all is ready, persuade it to
make a proper start. To effect this you go on board, and sitting down
beside the well (Petak ruang) burn incense and strew the sacrificial rice,
and then tapping the inside of the keelson (Jintekkan serempu) and the
next plank above it (Apit lempong), beg them to adhere to each other
during the voyage ; e.g. :
‘ Peace be with you, O big Medang and low-growing Medang!
Be ye not parted, biother from brother.
I desire you to speed me to the utmost of your power
(To such and such a place).
If ye will not, ye shall be rebels against God,’ etc.
I need hardly explain, perhaps, that ‘ Big Medang ’ and ‘ Low-growing
Medang ’ are the names of two varieties of the same tree which are supposed in the present instance to have furnished the timber from which
these different parts are made.” See also Mary Kingsley, op. cit.
has been found in other parts of the District, to the effect
that local gnats and midges have the power to talk like
men.
A narrow creek separates Effiatt Island from the mainland, and a short way down this, to the right, lies a stretch
of sand just raised above the mangrove swamp. To this,
in olden days, all small-pox sufferers were sent, and little
heaps of broken pots may still be seen placed there as
offerings to the Juju. This scourge was very prevalent
in the neighbourhood, and when an epidemic swept through
it is said that the crocodiles were quick to hear the news.
“ They gathered round the little beach, attracted by the
horrible smell of the disease. In the night time they used
to creep up to the houses and seize sick people out of their
beds, knowing that such were helpless and could not defend
themselves. Leopards, on the contrary, appear to avoid
towns on which this scourge has fallen, as the smell offends
their nostrils.”
Right through Effiatt runs another new creek, unmapped
before our arrival. This leads to Akwa Obio Effiatt, the
home of the great Oboyemi Juju, on which the prosperity
of the town depends and which, the inhabitants say, gives
them “ life.” A great carved ivory tusk lies in its shrine.
Farther south is the mouth of Widenham Creek, named
after a former Provincial Commissioner, Mr. Widenham
Fosbery, to whom I and mine owe many a kindness. Into
this creek flows that of Inua Abassi (God’s Mouth) leading
to the town of the same name. In the mud opposite the
entrance of this little water-way a strong post is to be
seen, to which in the old days a human sacrifice was
annually bound, to be drowned by the rising tide, at the
beginning of the fishing season. In these degenerate days
only a goat may be offered.
The town of Inua Abassi is of considerable size and,
as no clay is to be found in this part of the world, the houses
are built entirely of wood and palm-leaf. Such dwellings
are naturally inflammable, and as a result the inhabitants
take the curious precaution of keeping all their more valuable property in fenced-in spaces open to the sky, so that
it may be more easily saved in case of fire.
Little of any value was to be seen amid these treasured
belongings, which mostly consisted of cheap crockery and
a few brass trays and lamps, all of modern European
manufacture. Thrown away amid the yams outside, however, we stumbled across a long spear-head, of a type well
known in Northern Nigeria and Central Africa. From
the beautiful tint of its weathering, it was plain to see
that this was not made of iron or steel. Before touching
it, I asked if the owner of the land would be willing to
sell it, and was told that, since it had been flung away as
old and worthless, I was welcome to take it if I chose.
Examination proved it to be of copper and, though cracked
and bent, of fine workmanship and great age.
The people of Effiatt and the region south of Jamestown are of very mixed race, as, owing to the ease with
which supervision can be avoided, the neighbourhood serves
as a kind of Alsatia for surrounding tribes, but the majority
of them are probably Efik. The inhabitants gain their
livelihood by fishing, for which purpose they spend the
greater part of the year on the other side of the estuary.
From Jamestown we went on up the river until we
reached Urua Eye, where anything but a friendly reception
awaited us. Here again carriers and boys refused to have
any dealings with the townsfolk, but spent the night crowded
together as near as possible to our quarters ; because
here too they “ done fear too much.”
On leaving next morning, we noticed vultures crowding
the roofs of one of the compounds and the branches of
neighbouring trees. Below, on the ground, was a horrible
red stain, nearly six feet across, showing that either a considerable number of goats and sheep or some larger sacrifice
had been offered there. Later we learned the reason.
The chiefs of the place had for years been amassing
large sums of money by holding an illegal court. They
were naturally anxious that their ill-deeds should not come
to light and so joined in the plot against us. The bloodstain was caused by a sacrifice lately made with the object
of ensuring success to the venture.
Here, as till a few years ago on the Kwa Ibo, human
sacrifices were offered by the fisher-folk to the God of the
River in order to bribe him into sending rich hauls. Abassi
Esuk, the God of the Beach, received similar offerings
should the rainy season be unduly delayed, or if there was
unusual dearth of water during the dries. Now that the
coming of Government and the teaching of the missionaries
has put an end to such things, or at least made them matters
of extreme difficulty and danger, a goat is substituted. Its
blood is made to flow over the beach, and its head flung
far out into the current, as an offering to the deity.
On another occasion we went from Ibeno to James- •
town by a different path from that taken on our first visit
—this time following the banks of Stubbs and Widenham
Creeks. It was nearly four months later in the year and
the vegetation was quite changed in character. The
Napoleonas showed only fruits of gold-like Hesperidean
apples, but everywhere giant acacias were to be seen,
tossing masses of bloom, the exact tint of “ Princess of
Wales ” violets against the blue sky. In places the path
was covered with the fallen florets, and once we came to
a broad pool the surface of which was so thickly strewn
as to form a solid-looking cloth of azure—such an one as
Proserpine might have been making on that sad day when
Pluto found her, wandering amid Sicilian fields, seeking
violets to weave into a sky-robe for her father Zeus.
Through swamp after swamp we passed, and over
streams the ice-cold water of which reached our shoulders.
In places, far as the eye could see, beneath the low undergrowth, the road was carpeted with soft velvety moss.
Here and there toad-stools of brilliant scarlet stood out,
jewel-like, against this emerald background ; while small
frogs, of the exact shade of the fungi, hopped between.
Backward and forward over the main creek led the
road. Bridges were either broken or non-existent. At
one point, while crossing a particularly evil-looking swamp,
in single file, by means of a crazy erection of tree-trunks
and tie-tie, the rotten wood suddenly gave way beneath
the feet of my sister-in-law and she disappeared from sight
amid the high reeds below. The procession stopped in
horror, gazing down at the place where she had vanished
and, with many a shake of the head, declaring sadly that
Stubb’s Creek.
Base of Sacred Ebiribong Tree, surrounded by Pi.aited Mat,
denoting Dry and Rainy Seasons. (Seep. 315.)
she was “ quite, quite gone,” meantime effectually
blocking the narrow way, so that it was impossible for me
to reach the spot. Fortunately, however, with her usual
discretion, she had chosen a comparatively solid place on
which to fall—a little island in the surrounding morass—
whence, after struggling upon her feet, she presently emerged
between the parted reeds, much in the attitude of the
Egyptian maid watching Moses from amid the bulrushes
in the old Bible picture.
At our last crossing the creek was broad, reaching to
my shoulders, and in many cases up to the carriers’ chins.
I walked across as usual, but the interpreter elected to
be carried. The result was that the head of his unfortunate
bearer disappeared under water, after which there was a
catastrophe and both reached the bottom together.
A few yards farther the country opened out into a
strange narrow belt of grass land, which extended for several
miles. The presence of this oasis of herbage amid the
surrounding forest forms a problem difficult to solve. So
far as could be determined by casual examination, the
soil seems to contain nothing different to that of other
parts of the District. Chemical analysis might, however,
reveal the presence of some mineral prejudicial to luxuriant
growth. In this open stretch a Calabar trader named
Entete has built a settlement. Round the base of the
Juju post before his house various skulls were to be seen,
among them that of a rare species of bush-buck.
Entete himself acted as our guide next day through
the strange narrow belt of grass land, which, save for an
occasional clump of thin bush, stretches as far as Esuk
Ekkpo Abassi. From thence onward the bush resumes
its sway, every other branch garlanded by long trails of
sweet-scented orchids, while several new species of flowers
were discovered.
Yet, for all its desolation, the region has other attractions beside floral ones. Here, it would appear, herds of
pigmy elephant, the skull of one of which we first found
in a Juju house in the northern part of the District, range
at will. Hunter after hunter informed us, quite independently, that sometimes as many as a hundred of these
strange, fierce little pachyderms may be seen at one time
in the bush hereabouts. The temptation just for once to
break Government regulations as to the non-shooting of
elephants with tusks under twenty-five pounds weight
was almost too strong ; but reflection as to the impropriety
of setting so bad an example luckily intervened “ to check
the erring and reprove.” Added to this sense of duty
was a certain hope that influence might possibly be brought
to bear to allow of steps being taken to secure one specimen
of the species for the Natural History Museum and, if
fortune specially favoured, another for the Zoological
Gardens. Unfortunately these dreams were doomed to
unfulfilment, first through pressure of work, and secondly
by my sudden transfer.
Local hunters declare that they dread these pigmies
more than their greater brethren, to whom they are said
to act as an advance guard. At a distance, at which alone
I have caught sight of them, it was impossible to state
definitely that they belonged to a distinct species, though
it seems improbable that so large a number of young ones
should go about independently without so much as a single
full-sized elephant in sight.
The next place reached was Unyenga, a fair-sized town
unvisited by a white Commissioner since the punitive
expedition of 1902. The people seemed quite friendly and
the roads were cleaned, though signs were not wanting
to show that this had only been effected within the last
few days, probably not before news of our proposed visit
had reached the chiefs.
Later it transpired that the friendship was only skin-
deep. After we had left, in fact, the head chief sent out
and threatened those people of the neighbouring villages
who, in obedience to orders, were clearing the road for a
new trade route. It afterwards came to light that he had
good reason for wishing his territory to escape the attention of the white man. The alacrity with which the people
of the neighbourhood, hitherto subject to his dominion,
took up the suggestion as to improving the means of communication showed that they at least welcomed the idea
of more intimate supervision.